A 40-minute (very cramped) grand taxi ride from Essaouira will get you to beautiful Sidi Kaouki: Beautiful sunsets almost every night. This one really looked just like this, I swear. And the sound system at the mosque really sounds like this: I liked it there so much, I wanted to make a little something to remember it by. I’d collected some shells from the beach, and in Essaouira I picked up some old Moroccan coins and beads that matched […]
It started with a trip to the beach: and turned into a late lunch: followed by a stop for tea on the way home: and finished off with one last game of soccer: These guys know how to hang. Whew. More Sunday fun HERE.
Everyone warned me about Mont Saint Michel. Each time I told someone in Paris that I was thinking of traveling up to the north coast of France – at the height of the summer tourism season – to check out this famous island castle thing, the responses included one or more of the following words/phrases: swarms, hoards, crowds, oooof, masses, du monde (meaning: the whole damn world will be there). I thought about maybe going to the beach instead, especially […]
What comes first, the backpacker or the hostel? Are there no hostels in the Caribbean because backpackers don’t go there, or do backpackers avoid the Caribbean because there’s not a single $10 bunk in all those turquoise miles of paradise*? I went anyway…because even though I’d been wearing the same crusty pair of jean shorts since 2013, I still wanted to stick my dirty hippie toes in some white powdery sand, ok? And yes, it is possible to travel on […]
So Coveñas is not paradise – unless your idea of heaven is a sparse strip of past-their-prime, single-story concrete hotels hunkered down along the asphalt road from Tolú. Moldering patios look sullenly across a half-paved street and the sandy beach to the Gulf of Morrosquillo. The waves – both the temperature and color of tea with too much milk – come in quick and low, leaving a sad line of Coke bottles and DeTodito snack bags in their wake. Back […]
After a rough night in Coveñas, I was downright smitten with Tolú. I’d caught a bus on the side of the road in Coveñas and after a short ride I was greeted at the Tolu gas station by a swirl of bike taxis — every driver happy to overcharge me and my overstuffed backpacks for a ride to The Hotel Montecarlo. I bargained down to a price that was still too high (but maybe not, considering my pack is the […]